We grabbed croissants on the way out of Chinon to have along the way and we took the road out of town(cells and cars use it for a little ways). Smaller chateaus, modern houses and caves, vineyards. Many little towns with just a few houses. We rode at an easy pace in the cooler weather, following the Velo signs for Saumur. When we got to Candes Saint Martin we stopped for a coffee and ate our croissants. This is a cute town on the river and there were more an more speed demon bicyclists passing by(in their fancy livery). We hadn't gotten very far when we began to see the Fête de Velo signs posted on major roads.
The fête is where one the main road to Angers is blocked to cars and only velos can use it, for two days a bike can cover the distance safely and quickly. It knocks off miles of traveling and it goes along the river, is smoothly paved and wide.
As we were passing through one of the first towns we heard a high pitched, piercing voice "Bonjoooouuuuur!"
Coming up from behind. It was our friend from the campground. Marie Pascal was her name we learned later. She guided us a bit and chatted with us the whole way to Saumur. We passed many people old and young riding the road doing 30 or more kilometers at a casual pace. And when we arrived at Saumur there were hundreds of bicyclists and the vintage crowd was out dressed up in old bikes.
We watched them for about 10 minutes before crossing the bridges into the city where there was a festival market with live music. Many stalls of old rusty bikes, old clothes etc, food and cafes. Live music with a dance floor and young and old were there. A little after noon we had lunch with Marie and finished a bottle of wine. I had a vegan bulgar salad with raw shredded carrots, beets, Jerusalem artichoke. They had been shredded in long narrow sticks. I swear the shape made them taste better. Doug had a tartaflette pizza and Marie had a veggie pizza. The pizza is a pretty big thing over here as it turns out.
By now although it was overcast, the sun felt bright so we parted ways (she was riding on to Angers to find camping) and we went to the local camping which turned out to be nice and with some shade. We were too worn out to visit the chateau or even ride around town more. But you can see it from everywhere, practically. I would go back, there was so much in the area. This whole region is full of sights. But the architectural history and beauty can be a little overwhelming and tiring.
We did go back in the evening to hang out in a square and listen to live music, really good jazz at one place and a wonderful bluesy vocalist with his amazing guitar accompaniment. Doug had a beer, I had some sparkling water and an apricot tart with apricot glacé. The waiter was nice in letting us occupy a table for just drinks during the dinner hours .
Really great live music all day. There wasn't any place to charge the phone at the camping so we conserved the power for the ride the next day and getting through Angers.
